A Temagami Break
We just returned from a getaway to Temagami, a forest and lake paradise six hours north of Toronto. The drive there leaves the flat lands of southern Ontario and cuts through ancient granite passages blasted out by dynamite. The forests of maple give way to long stretches of pine and birch, towns grow further and further apart and the temperature drops down down down and gas prices, food prices go up up up as you leave the busy highways. Trucks roar past you on the two-lane Highway 11 with logs, supplies. Small ponds edge the sides of the road. You are beyond the busy vacation properties of Muskoka or the tourist havens of Algonquin. It's the beginnings of the north where life runs hard, rough and a lot less busy. It's where the landscape is beautiful and heavenly to the visitor but ordinary for those who live there day by day. Here the lakes are frozen solid. Waterways become highways and shortcuts.
When the drive is over, the air is crisp and cold. The low winter sun splashes long purple shadows from the forest on the wind-blown lakes. If you hold your breath long enough and hold your head steady, you can see nothing move or hear any sound except for the warm blood moving in your chest. For months I dreamed about getting away - not just to a white beach or a New York vacation. But really away. And it turns out I don't have to go south, fly anywhere, or book a tour of anything. Just head north. Standing there, on the first night, in the middle of a frozen lake, watching the sun set, I still wondered how something so still and so unmaufactured so unmanmade can bring so much pleasure.More to come later.





